As I am typing these lines, my wife and I are sitting on the bus from Gifu to Takayama, watching the landscape slowly transform outside the window.
The further we leave the city behind, the deeper we enter the mountains. Snow begins to appear on rooftops, then along the roadsides, and eventually it blankets the entire scenery. There is something calming about this transition. It feels like the world is quieting down, preparing us for the place we are about to visit.
Tonight, we will arrive in Hirayu Onsen, where we will stay for one night. We are planning to visit the Winter Matsuri, soak in the ryokan’s hot spring baths, and if energy allows, even head up to the nearby ski resort the next day.
Before arriving, I thought it would be nice to share a little context about this special place.
What is Hirayu Onsen
Hirayu Onsen is one of the most famous hot spring towns in the Okuhida region of Gifu Prefecture, tucked deep within the Northern Japan Alps.
It is actually the oldest and largest of the Okuhida hot spring villages, with a bathing culture that stretches back hundreds of years. Like many onsen towns in Japan’s mountainous regions, its discovery is wrapped in legend. One story tells of injured warriors finding relief in the steaming waters while passing through the mountains.
Today, Hirayu Onsen is known for its abundance of natural hot spring sources. The mineral-rich waters flow into traditional ryokan baths, public bathhouses, outdoor rotenburo, and even free footbaths scattered around the village.
At over 1,200 meters above sea level, the air is crisp, the nights are quiet, and the surrounding peaks create a sense of peaceful isolation that many visitors seek when they come here.
Winter Atmosphere and the Hirayu Winter Matsuri
During winter, Hirayu transforms into a snowy onsen retreat.
One of the seasonal highlights is the Hirayu Winter Matsuri, a small but atmospheric festival where snow sculptures, lanterns, and evening illuminations bring warmth and light into the cold alpine nights.
This is exactly why we timed our visit now.
There is something magical about attending a winter festival after soaking in an outdoor hot spring bath while snow falls gently around you. It is one of those very Japanese seasonal experiences that blends nature, tradition, and quiet celebration.
Skiing and Outdoor Activities
For those who want more than hot springs, Hirayu also offers access to winter sports.
Hirayu Onsen Ski Resort sits just above the onsen town and is known for powder snow and scenic runs surrounded by alpine landscapes.
It is not as large or commercial as major ski resorts, which actually adds to its charm. It feels local, relaxed, and uncrowded, making it perfect for a spontaneous ski session during a short stay.
We are keeping this option open for tomorrow morning, depending on how much we enjoy the festival tonight and how deeply the onsen relaxation pulls us in.
Why Hirayu Onsen is Special
What makes Hirayu Onsen stand out is not just the hot springs themselves, but the setting.
You are bathing in geothermal waters while surrounded by some of Japan’s most dramatic mountain scenery. In every season it is beautiful, but winter adds an extra layer of stillness and introspection.
It is the kind of place where time slows down.
Where conversations become softer.
Where the simple act of soaking in hot water becomes a full sensory experience.
As our bus continues winding through the mountain roads toward Takayama, I can already feel that shift happening.
From movement to stillness.
From noise to quiet.
From routine to retreat.
By the time you read this, we will likely be soaking in an outdoor bath under the winter sky, lantern light reflecting on the snow, fully arrived in Hirayu Onsen.
And I will share more stories once we are back.
Experiences - Life - Inspiration 🇨🇭🇯🇵 
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