Kokedera: Kyoto’s Moss Temple and Sutra Copying

Last Sunday morning, my wife and I drove to Kyoto to visit Kokedera, also known as Saihō-ji — a stunning moss temple renowned for its tranquil gardens and spiritual atmosphere. Visiting this temple requires an advance reservation, which includes participation in a traditional sutra copying session as part of the entry process.

I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect, but it turned out to be a deeply meditative and meaningful experience.

Upon arrival, we were guided into a tatami room where we were handed a brush pen and a sheet of paper. There was no audio guide or spoken explanation — only a simple pamphlet with instructions and background information about the temple’s history and significance. The quiet setting invited reflection from the moment we sat down.

We were asked to take a moment to settle in, observe the peaceful surroundings, and direct our attention to the statue of the Buddha at the front of the room. Then we began the practice of shakyo — the hand-copying of a Buddhist sutra. Although I couldn’t read the kanji, we were told that the characters conveyed the teachings and path of the Buddha. This practice has long been a form of spiritual devotion and mental focus in Japanese Buddhism.

As I slowly traced the intricate characters, the act itself became a meditation. There was no pressure to understand or perfect the writing — just quiet presence and movement. When we completed our sutra copying, we were invited to offer a short prayer to the Buddha before stepping outside to explore the temple’s legendary moss garden.

The garden was breathtaking — a lush, living tapestry of green, cultivated over centuries with great care. I had never seen such natural beauty so perfectly preserved and maintained. Walking along its soft, shaded paths felt like an extension of the meditation we had just completed — calm, grounding, and timeless.

Visiting Kokedera was unlike any temple experience I’ve had in Japan. It wasn’t about sightseeing or ticking off landmarks — it was about slowing down, becoming present, and connecting to something deeper. The quiet act of sutra copying, followed by a peaceful walk through one of the most beautiful gardens I’ve ever seen, left a lasting impression.